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The Turkish Coast
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The CARIAN COAST: From Bodrum to Marmaris
Bodrum (ancient Halicarnassos) is the first yachting center in Turkey. Surrounded by a wild mountaineous area, it offers a panorama of history, mythology and a spectacular scenery. Tourism has made the city prosper and it is today picturesque, friendly and slightly westernised with a strong Venetian influence.
The port is dominated by the Castle of St. Peter, which also houses a very interesting museum with an important collection of ancient glass and marine objects. Bodrum, the ancient Halikarnassos, was the birth place of Herodotus and an important port and capital of kingdom of Caria. The city also has one of the seven wonders of the world, the tomb of Mausolus, a grave built by the widow of Mausolus who ruled Halicarnassos during the third century (B.C.). Contemporary Bodrum is primarily devoted to the more hedonistic pleasures of boating, bronzing and boozing, and has therefore been nicknamed "Bedroom". It houses an outdoor discotheque "Halikarnas Hotel", where the jet-set can be seen late at night dancing among ancient pillars and laser beams. With its abundance of pubs and bars (Veli Bar, Hadigari Bar, Ora Bar), Bodrum is no doubt a great partly town. It is also known to be a bohemian artistic centre and is an excellent place for shopping turkish handicraft.
The ancient sites of Ephesus (Efes) and Selcuk are well worth a trip for anyone interested in ancient life. Efes is one of the main attractions in Turkey and should not be missed, if one is nearby. On the road between Efes and Selcuk are the ruins of the temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of ancient world. The little town of Selcuk is dominated by Byzantine Citadel overlooking the Basilica of St. John, which is presently under reconstruction. This is a day trip or a stop going to or from Izmir.
Gulf of Gökova
has enough stunning places for at least a week of sailing. Sehir Adalari (Snake and Castle Islands, pp 131-132) are known for Cleopatra's Beach which she is believed to have made for her lover Anthony with sand shipped from North Afrika. The nearby bays of Kesr, Sögüt and Degirmen Bükü, located in the far east of the Gulf of Gökova are all very nice.
Gulf of Hisarönü
means the Gulf of Fortresses and refers to the many ancient and medieval forts, scattered around the hills of the gulf. The ancient prosperous city of Knidos was one of the six cities of the Dorian Confederacy. The solitary setting of the overgrown but identifiable ruins, such as the large theatre and the circular Temple of Aphrodite, gives a special and impressive atmosphere. Knidos is 90 bone shaking minutes from Datca by car.
Datça
is the largest village and the the only one of size on this part of the coast besides Bozburun. It is a very picturesque village, which is still rather untouched by tourists. It is also the main harbour for provisioning between Bodrum and Marmaris and is a must, if you pass this way.
Other nice places to visit are Bencik and Keci Bükü. On the peninsula between Keci Bükü and Port Losta you will find Lodos, the most beautiful restaurants on the coast. Customers here get served the best of food in a splendid environment, surrounded by floral terraces. Unless the owner has decided to close the doors for the evening, this will be something to remember.
On the way to or from Marmaris a stop at Ciftlik and Kumlu will be pleasant pause. There are several nice restaurants ashore.
Marmaris
situated where the Mediterranean and Aegean seas meet, lies in a natural harbour surrounded by pine forests stretching down to the water front. The city has boomed and most of the houses were built rather recently. A medieval fortress is under reconstruction in the middle of what is left of the old town. Marmaris is a true harbour full with charter yachts and gulets (Turkish yachts in wood), carrying visitors to the Paradise Islands or other nearby shores. Marmaris also has a large number of nice restaurants and cafes (Moustache, Zühal) and one can find good buys here, especially carpets.
The LYCIAN COAST: From Marmaris to Antalya
Ekincik
situated eight kilometers from Caunos, ist the best place for overnight anchorage between Marmaris and Skopea Liman. The bay consists of a long beach and a few restaurants.! "My Marina" is one of the nicest but also one of the most expensive, especially of the price is not settled prior to ordering. Tours leave from here several times a day, taking visitors to the ancient Caunos and up the river to Dalyan and Köyçegiz Lake.
Approaching Caunos from the sea, one passes the famous "turtle beach", said to be one of the few places in the Mediterranean where giant logger-head turtles come to lay their eggs. Caunos is an ancient city of Caria, which has passed seven centuries of live under the Persians, Greeks and Romans. Caunos was known as an unhealthy place in those days, probably due to the malaria which was brought by the mosquitoes of the surroundings swamps.
Continuing up the river and passing the nearby town of Dalyan (fish trap in English), you will find the Lycian rock tombs, ancient graves carved in the mountain walls. Further up are the thermal baths of Lake Köyçegiz. The setting of Caunos, especially viewed from the top of the medieval fort, is breathtaking and well worth the effort.
Skopea Liman
alone has enough bays to find a different place to anchor every night. Perhaps that is why it is among the most popular areas along the coast. The Gulf is small and protected by the islands in the east. In most bays on ecan find a restaurant but the quality varies. Among the numerous bays, we recommend Karpi Creek, Tersane Adasi, and Wall Bay. Göcek, situated in the northern part of Skopea Liman, is also pleasent but sometimes very hot. Here one can get supplies before continuing along the coast.
Fethiye
is a rather small and attractive port which also may be very hot during the height of summer. Most of the town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1957 and then rebuilt, losing some of its original charm. Here one can stop at the market place or in the shops close to the waterfront. Although small, the town has a large number of restaurants and bars. From here you can take day trips by car or bus to the sites of Patara, Xanthos and Lethoon (about 65 km)
Gemiler Adasi
is a nice stop before heading west towards Marmaris or continuing south-east some 30 nautical miles towards Kalkan. Gemiler Adasi consists of a number of nice anchorages. Karacaören Bükü is especially beautiful and has a simple restaurant which serves delicious fresh lobster and other seafood. Just opposite is a small island with ruins and goats. The Gemiler Adasi island itself provides a spelendid view from the top but is not recommended for anchorage as the north shores are heavily littered by yachtsmen and by three restaurants of Gemiler Bay.
Kaya
is an eerie ghost town which was the home of tens of thousands of Greeks until the deportation of the 1920's. It Makes for a fascinating stop on your way from Fethiye, Gemiler Adasi or Ölü Deniz.
Ölü Deniz
a secluded bay some 25 kilometers from Fethiye, is a lovely place displaced on the front page of most Turkish tourist brochures. Although it has been dramatically developed recently, it has not been spoiled. Some of Turkeys most beautiful and crowded beaches will be found here along with good bars and restaurants.
Patara, Xanthos and Lethoon
are all ancient places being respectively used as a harbour, a residential area and a holy place. Patara, situated 11 kilometers west of Kalkan, is a very special place which is said to be the birth place of Santa Claus. Quite ironic, considering the endless summer sunshine on its piping hot beach. The practically deserted beach has a tide which can be used for body surfing. From the top of the ancient theatre there is a magnificient view over the area, including its seven mile (11 kilometer) long beach. The site of Xanthos has been excavated by British explorers and gives an impressive view over Esen Çay. Ath Lethoon there are three temples dedicated to Leto, Apollo and Artemis.
Kalkan
a nice port situated at the foot of a rather impressive mountain. The old town is to a large extent owned by well situated people from Istanbul. Hence it has a large number of sophisticated restaurants and bars. This is the best place from where to go on excursions to the nearby ancient sites.
Kas
is probably the fastest growing tourist attraction on this part of the coast. Like many other small towns along the coast it was greek untill 1922. It is a very smart, artistic village known for its nice restaurants and cafes which are scattered around the harbour and open untill the early morning hours. A number of nice sites can be visited from Kas. Kastellorizon is a greek island just opposite Kas. With its white painted houses and greek taverns it will make a very pleasent change and contribution to your trip.
Kekova Reede
is the favourite place for many yachtsmen who know the turkish coast in detail. Approaching Kekova Reede from the western channel the first thing one sees is the magnificent castle on the island Kale Köy. This small island has become tremendously popular during the last five years and several restaurants have emerged from its old ruins. In die middle of the waterway stands a 2000 years old sarcophagus. This is what is known as the top of "the Sunken City". Other nice bays are Tersane, Uçagiz Limani and Gökkaya Limani.
For those who come or leave by airport of Antalya or sail east of Kekova Reede, we suggest stops at one or more of the sites of Myra with the Lycian rock tombs, and Demre with the church of Saint Nicholas. Phaselis (Tekirova) 13 Kilometers south of Kemer is the most picturesque ancient town between Kas and Antalya. Antalya Marina (old harbour) is a most enchanting harbour with smart restaurants along the quays and winding roads in theold city.
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